July 11, 2013 - Posted by Erin in Spain, Travel, Travels in Europe, Travels in Spain

I can’t stop staring at my cell phone with its wallpaper taunting me to go back. A lighthouse stretches out into the sea, waves crash into craggy rocks, and sunrays bathe a sloping cliff of green, with promise of warmth despite the chilly waters.


Sigh, Cudillero. Even more “sigh” right now as the mercury in Madrid has danced around 100ºF for more days than I can remember, and will continue to for as long as my iPhone weather forecast wishes to reveal. I positively long for that chilly marine breeze and the sound of seagulls.

And I’m embarrassed, because I realize that I haven’t really even told you about this northern paradise, this pueblo of perfection, this new favorite Spanish place of mine (and that’s not hyperbole; I mean it, I really do).


Imagine a fishermen’s village, idyllic, with a jagged colorful skyline of buildings that brushes up against the sea just as the waves do against the shore. The whole village funnels and weaves toward the water like a giant luge, as if everything that matters must lead to the sea.

It probably used to, and still very much does, but in this northern Asturian town of some 6,000 people the industry these days has become more about tourism and agriculture than it is about the sea. That said, during my visit, I saw few tourists – just a pilgrim here and there, slogging the ups and downs of the Camino de la Costa.

But what really makes little Cudillero so special is that, apart from its obvious charm, there’s just something magnetic about the way the town cradles and almost cuddles the sea, like an auditorium to eternity. It’s the kind of place that begs for you to stop and dream, and mostly to come back.

Fortunately, while Cudillero might not be in my future again any time soon, that doesn’t mean that an ocean escape isn’t. Next week I head to San Francisco then north to Seattle and Vashon Island, where I’ll be free of these Spanish temperatures and get a healthy dose of home — marine air, seagulls and all.


11 Responses to “Cudillero calling me back”

  1. Cat of Sunshine and Siestas Says:

    Will be stopping in Cudillero during my first day of the Camino del Norte – looking so forward to it!

  2. Cam @ Traveling Canucks Says:

    What a cute town! I’ve never heard of it before, but it looks wonderful.

  3. Erin Says:

    I hadn’t heard much of it either after all my years here, and am surprised that it isn’t more of a destination. It’s far different than any other pueblo I’ve ever been to in Spain. Just loved it 🙂

  4. Emily Says:

    Hi Erin,

    I just stumbled over your blog a few days ago. I have really enjoyed reading through several of your posts, and this one on Cudillero is no exception. I studied in Spain (Salamanca) in 2008 (through I travelled all throughout, except not in Basque Country or Valencia, sadly), and I am loooong overdue for a visit. I am so glad to have discovered your blog to tide me over until I can 🙂 I have to say I never had a bad meal in Spain. Let me rephrase, I never had a meal that I could not qualify as “one of the best meals of my life” (with the exception of my breakfasts with my host family, which were still “very good” and probably necessary to carry on with my life without gaining 500 pounds). Your posts on food take me right back to every meal I’ve had in Spain, no matter how divergent your food is, because you know exactly how I felt!! I hope to get back to do some wine country some day soon. I hope you are enjoying Madrid– I spent a short weekend there and loved it. I am so glad I have your blog to read now to keep my hunger for Spain sated (temporarily) 🙂 Happy travels!


  5. Erin Says:

    Awww, thanks, Emily! Anyone who passionately loves Spanish food is indeed a friend of mine! I just made a quick day trip to Bilbao today and OH MY GAWD I had the most amazing lunch. Hopefully I have time to post about it so that you can live vicariously through me ;). Thanks for following along on my blog, and I hope you make it back here someday! Good food awaits!!!

  6. Ben Holbrook Says:

    Hey Emily,

    It still amazes me how much of Spain is left relatively undiscovered. I lived in Barcelona for two years but I’m constantly reminded of how much more there is to explore – Spain and its magnetic charm is calling me back…..again.

    Thanks you.


  7. Linda Rasmussen Says:

    This town looks absolutely adorable. Thank you for introducing me to it. I’m going to put it on my list of top 10 things to see next time I go back to Spain.

  8. Jenn Says:

    What a charming town indeed. I was recently in Spain (mostly southern except for Madrid) and have enjoyed every minute of it — from the beautiful landscapes to the people and most especially the food. Growing up in the Philippines, Spanish food is not an uncharted cuisine but to discover such diversity in taste and dishes during my visit was such a delight. I look forward to reading more of your stories and new discoveries of Spain. 🙂


  9. Sand In My Suitcase Says:

    Cudillero looks like a delightful town! Luv the photo of the lighthouse jutting out on the point… Thanks for letting us know about this Spanish village…

  10. Sean Says:

    Hey Erin, what a beautiful place 🙂 I haven’t heard of the place before this post either but will be adding it to my list of ‘must visit’ places. I’m a bit of a noob traveller, do you think that this is the type of place that they’d dislike tourists or people who speak English?

  11. Erin Says:

    Of course not! I don’t think you’ll come across any places in Spain like that — most people are friendly, regardless of your language skills. If they aren’t friendly, it probably is just them, not the language issue.

Leave a Reply