The buzz about Croatia is fierce these days. So when my mom offered a birthday trip to Dubrovnik, I got all geared up for sun-kissed coasts, a heavy dose of Balkan culture and exceeded expectations lurking around every cobbled corner. I found my sun, but the truth is, my trip left me a bit confused. I think it’s high time for a little Dubrovnik debrief.

The 7th-century city seems to be the picture of Croatian coastal-town perfection – streets clean enough lick, scalable walls that look like they were built yesterday, and some hills that could put San Francisco to shame. It’s pretty much unfathomable that such a pristine town could have been bombed just two decades ago by neighboring Serbia and Montenegro.
So it must have been a Croatian pueblo paradise, right? Well, not exactly. Let me break it down for you.

Don’t expect Croatian cuisine
I ate more pizza and gelato in Croatia than I did on my recent trip to Italy. Why? Because apparently the national cuisine of Croatia is Italian food. Ya. I’m sure this is just fine for a good chunk of the cruise-ship population that descends on the small town, but it just left me a little lost. I may as well not go to a country if I can’t literally eat my way through it (pathetic?). Perhaps some amazing traditional dishes hide in cities across Croatia (or perhaps, they’re in Italy?), but they definitely aren’t in Dubrovnik.
Croatian culture – where are you?
I searched high and low – under pizza crusts, between the nooks and crannies of the city walls, and in the trunk of our Croatian driver’s car – but I just couldn’t find it. Unique cuisine? Well, I already struck out there. Quirky locals? Nope, just hoards of tourists. Peculiar customs? Hmm, no, everything was pretty, um, customary. I hear Zagreb is all sorts of amazing, so maybe that’s where all the culture is hiding?
Sun-kissed coasts do not equal sandy beaches
Crystal-blue water surrounds Dubrovnik. Good thing I didn’t plan to lay on any beaches, though, because I wouldn’t have really found them there. While there are a few sandy alcoves, and what I assume to be man-made beaches, the majority of the shoreline consists of jagged, less-than-inviting cliffs. With water that tempting, however, many of the rocky shores have been repurposed into terraces for laying out. The Dubrovnik beach takeaway: you can get your sunbathing fix, but don’t necessarily expect to do so on a soft bed of Mediterranean sand.

The good news
Most things in life can be forgiven over a good glass of wine, so for what Dubrovnik lacks in culture, cuisine and sandy coastlines, it makes up for in alcohol. Like in Spain, almost every glass I came across was nothing short of amazing. So I guess if you find yourself less-than-impressed by Dubrovnik, grab a bottle of wine and soak up the sun a safe distance away from a rocky cliff.

Above, wine by Croatian-turned-Napa-Valley vintner, Grgich, side-by-side with versions made in his home country.
Alright, so Dubrovnik wasn’t exactly what I expected. But I’m also a little bit of a culture-and-cuisine snob and therefore get flustered when cruise-ships stand between me and someplace new. Croatia was STUNNING, so I hope that a future trip takes me to a destination with less tourists and more traditions.
What has everyone else’s Croatian experiences been like? Am I missing something?



























